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  #11 (permalink)  
Old 12-03-2007, 11:15 PM
puffjoe puffjoe is offline
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Default Step 9

Quote:
I take cuttings using Oasis (sponge like material available from florists, normally used for flower arrangements) and the way to do it is a thread in itself but briefly:


Quote:
1) Water mother plant thoroughly;
2)Pre soak Oasis blocks and make 3/4 inch deep holes in them using the centre (ink) piece of a biro;
2) Cut off the branch (an hour or so after watering mum) above last growing nodes (so that the branch will be replaced) ensuring that there will be a growing node under the ground and another (or two) above the ground;
3) Re make this cut but at a 45 degree angle;
4) Scarate the end of the cutting (place the end between the scissor blades and run it up and down almost as if you were peeling it);
5) Optionally add a little rooting hormone into the hole in the Oasis cube and insert your cutting.
6) Place these cuttings in a saucer of water and replace water every 24 hours. Keep these saucers on a heating mat and under and moisture dome with some air flow.
7) When rooted place cuttings, Oasis cube and all, into a soil filled pot.
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  #12 (permalink)  
Old 12-03-2007, 11:34 PM
puffjoe puffjoe is offline
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Default Step 10

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Step 10

Moving to flowering.
Quote:

When your plant is the size and width that you want it to be when you begin flowering (remember plants will double in height during flowering) you simply switch the lighting pattern to 12 hours on and 12 hours off (a few use 10 on and 14 hours off).

Whilst there is some truth that a Cannabis plant isn't sexually mature until it's internodal growth is showing alternate phyllotaxy (branching is no longer opposite) most strains have enough non tropical genes in them to allow them to be forced to maturity at a much younger age than nature would prescribe. Equally, many many strains show preflowers whilst retaining opposite phyllotaxy far far earlier than they show alternate phyllotaxy, hell, alternate phyllotaxy isn't even something people generally talk about unless they grow tropical sativas that need a maturation period.

And since we don't want big plants, we're going to force these babies.

Before flowering is commenced it is worth giving one last veg strength feeding to ensure good solid stem growth through the initial s t r e t c h phase in flowering (2 to 3 weeks)

After this feed switch to a more flowering orientated fert (see above) or else you could slow the flowering process down and lessen the final possible yield.

For the first 10 days to two weeks the plants will s t r e t c h upwards faster than at any other stage in growth and if you are using flouro's it is here that you will have to really work at keeping your lights as close as possible without actually touching the plants.

After this initial stretch buds will begin to form and fatten.
The last two weeks are the key in putting on weight but during these final two weeks it is worth giving your plants nothing to eat but plain water in order to flush any chemicals out of them in the run up to harvest. You should see them begin to eat the nutrient stored inside themselves, seeing the leaves turn to yellow.
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  #13 (permalink)  
Old 12-03-2007, 11:35 PM
puffjoe puffjoe is offline
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Default Step 11

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Step 11

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Pre harvest.

In the last week before harvest keep a close eye on the trichomes of your bud and when the majority have changed from transulcent to white (and maybe a few to amber) you know your bud is ready to be cut.

As this time approaches (a couple of days before the cut) I place my plants in a slightly shaded area of the garden to allow for extra resin growth and remove most of the fan leaves to make manicuring easier.

As mentioned above, I also only water at this stage, no food.
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  #14 (permalink)  
Old 12-03-2007, 11:36 PM
puffjoe puffjoe is offline
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Default Step 12

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Step 12
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Harvest and manicure.

The day before harvest don't water your plant, that way you will not have quite so much moisture in it.

When harvest comes try to harvest in the morning (after dark period) to maximise THC content of the resin.

Chop the plants buds of and remove the majority of leaf material (which can be saved for the bubble bags to make hash if they are nice and resiney) using sharp scissors. No explanation is needed really of this process at it is self explanatory. The first time you do it it is also fun, after that, well, it becomes a chore. Check out a thread called Phallic for some pictures of a manicure in progress.
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  #15 (permalink)  
Old 12-03-2007, 11:38 PM
puffjoe puffjoe is offline
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Default Step 13

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Step 13

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Drying and curing.

Hang your manicured bud out to dry in a temperate and dark space with plenty of air movement (but not air blowing directly onto the buds as this will dry them too fast and produce a crispy bud) for 3 - 7 days until they are dry, a good rule of thumb is testing to see if the stems break. If they crack rather than bend then they are almost certainly dry enough.

At this stage the buds are OK to smoke but will taste and perform a lot better if cured for a couple of weeks.

To do this place the bud in mason jars with the lids closed for two weeks. During this two weeks remove the lid from the jar every day (twice a day preferably) to exchange the air, it is wise for the first week to actually remove the bud and repack it too to make sure there are no wet patches. If there is any sign of moisture remove the bud and re dry.
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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 12-03-2007, 11:39 PM
puffjoe puffjoe is offline
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Default Step 14

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Step 14


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Roll a phatty and enjoy the fruits of your labor.
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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 12-10-2007, 09:51 PM
upnaway upnaway is offline
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Thanks for the useful tips.
I have been trying but not really been succeeding.
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 12-11-2007, 11:31 PM
ron22 ron22 is offline
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Nice guide ,very instructive,can you illustrate?
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 12-17-2007, 09:30 PM
drfikc drfikc is offline
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This is like a cool like booklet that one needs on hand all the time.
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 12-26-2007, 04:22 PM
Tiffany-wholesaler Tiffany-wholesaler is offline
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Default Tiffany-wholesaler

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